Goodbye 2010 - You Were Good to Us

2010 is coming to an end and I, for one, cannot believe that it has already been one complete year since we celebrated the beginning of 2010. So much happened this year, most of it really good and some of it, eh, well, not so good. But like all good personal historians and people who chose to remain sane, I find myself concentrating on the positive.

The Steinbach Clan celebrated our first year of happy matrimony as well as many small moments of shared happiness like this one, this one, and this one. The Mr. also finally revealed to the world his dance moves.

2010 brought some pretty significant changes to how I view myself:

• I started responding to “Frau Steinbach” with the understanding that its me.
• I finally got unlimited German visa, more than seven years into this adventure.
• I started writing again – even trying some new stuff like fiction and attending two excellent workshops one in Scotland with Joanna Paterson and one in Ireland with Irene Graham
• I started growing towards the role of mother.

2010 did include a few sad moments. I lost a dear friend and faithful writing fan. The Mr. and I also said goodbye to our little Peewee. Happily, I reached 30 and finally broke the curse of crappy even birthdays. Thanks again to everyone who helped celebrate my new decade!

But we sure did travel a heck of a lot this year:

• Ireland
• Italy (where we came home with a little bun in the oven)
• Vancouver and unlimited Sushi (yes, it turns out this was my highlight looking back)
• Our honeymoon in New Zealand – there are so many blogs, but I chose the one that remained in my heart at the highlight
• London
• Scotland

xo

The New Zealand Highlight

The longer we are back in Germany, the clearer it becomes to me that the number one highlight from our trip was Milford Sound. The Mr. and I took an overnight cruise on the Sound. I'm allowing Wikipedia to detail out what Milford Sound is; I'll stick with the pictures.

On the way there we passed some of the remaining snow and ice from the winter before. Remember it was fall, summer was just ending, so you can imagine how much snow is there each winter.

If you look carefully in the bottom right, you'll see the Mr's green jacket, giving you a sense of the size dimensions.

The boat we spent the night on. It was my first night on a boat and I was spoiled rotten.

When we started our trip it was raining hard and very cloudy. We were disappointed at first until an employee of the boat pointed out the hundred waterfalls, which are only visible when its raining. It is rare that visitors get to see so many waterfalls - it was raining just the right amount without being too misty.

A few hours later, ignoring the hard rain that had just stopped and the choppy water, we joined a few Aussies for some kayaking. I ended up rather sea sick but the Mr. held through until the very end.

The Mr. at the very end. Very, very wet and very, very happy.

As the day continued and the rain stayed away, the clouds began to clear and we could see more and more of the Milford Sound's walls.

Following dinner and as the sun sank, the wonder of the night colors began. We were rather lucky that in the sea was calm enough to enjoy the dancing colors.

When night had fallen, we were joined by a little seal who played with the rubber stairs of the boat. Even the boat employees were entranced. And then we headed to bed.

The following morning the weather was even nicer to us as the clouds hung around the Milford's mountains. The tops of the lower mountains started to pop out of the clouds, creating some even nicer views.

After lunch a true rarity occurred, the clouds parted enough so that even the top of a higher mountain and little tick of sun were visible. 

And then, right at the very end, and only for a collection of seconds, the tops of the largest mountains suddenly revealed themselves as group, the clouds thinned themselves out, and the sun peaked through, right as we were posing for that last picture.

xo

Sense of Humor Required

Before the Mr. and I really understood that the Kiwis have a very limited sense of distance or time estimation, we took an “easy, short” hike on the Rob Roy track about "thirty minutes" outside of Wanaka. From the literature available in Wanaka and the information posted for the hike itself, the hike was billed as a 2-2.5 hour hike for beginners with stunning views of the Rob Roy Glacier. One small part of that information was correct: the stunning views of the Rob Roy Glacier.

The drive out to the track was beautiful, passing through and by deer, sheep, and cow farms, and took at least one hour to drive, including a few excellent opportunities to ford the road.

Natural wonder

Deer Farms*

Cow farms and ford in the road

The track was beautiful and most of it was well formed, including the sections that you needed your hands and feet and a really good sense of humor. It started with a swinging bridge

and followed through with startling beauty.

Tree roots as the track

River that ran beside the track

Glacier and waterfall from afar

Glacier and waterfall from not so afar

We didn’t make it to the end – who knows how long the Kiwi “2-2.5 hours” would have ended up. But in the end, like everything else, the effort was worth it and we ended the trip with a smile and an extra, natural surprise.

We're-almost-there kiss

Rainbow wishing us farewell

We were both sore for a few days and that was our last hike.

xo

*Did you know that over 50% of the venison that is served in Germany is raised in New Zealand? Yummy.

It Always Works Out in the End

There are a few things that Kiwis cannot do well. The most important for all Kiwi-virgins out there is the following: Kiwis have very limited sense of distance or time estimation. They will very happily tell you Destination X is “right around the corner” or “about 20 minutes down the road” and they will be telling you what they believe is the truth.

DO NOT BELIEVE THESE PEOPLE. Say thank you and then double (if not triple) whatever you were just told before planning your next steps.

Our first learning experience with said very limited sense of distance or time estimation was our adventure getting to Baldwin Street (for a reminder, see the earlier blog). We asked a very friendly Kiwi if Baldwin Street was within walking distance. The answer? “Its about 20 minutes down the road…great weather… an easy walk.”

Please see exhibit A - you have to click on the image to get the full view. Note we were at A and Baldwin Street was B. Also note the distance and time required for said distance on the left hand side of exhibit A.

Over four kilometers and one very hot and thirsty hour later we reached the street.

But the point of this blog is not this rather endearing Kiwi weakness but actually how everything always works out. Our unexpected not-so-excellent learning lesson (repeated numerous times before we got the hang of it*) lead to an excellent experience we would not have had otherwise: Tunnel Beach.

Before the Mr. and I undertook the hour long walk back into Dunedin (because the bus wasn’t gonna happen), we stopped off at a bar called the Mannequin and met an excellent American living and working there. This Good People gave us a few tips for our trip around New Zealand. By far the best was the very little known Tunnel Beach.

Totally off the ‘beaten track’ but totally worth the detour, Tunnel Beach left us both deeply respectful for the raw natural environment of New Zealand; a chill for what a little selfishness (read the link above) can offer to others later on; and a deep yearning for the adventures coming towards us.

From the head of the walking trail down to the beach, we had an idea of just how beautiful this excursion was going to be.

After about 45 minutes of getting closer and closer, we finally reached the carved sandstone. Look carefully and you can see the Mr. and get a sense of size.

The sea was loudly pounding against the stone, slowly carving further into the cliffs, and yet the atmosphere was of absolute peace. Thinking we’d seen the tunnel (turns out that's an arch in the picture above), we were ready to slowly meander back towards the car when we noticed a – wait for it – man-made tunnel. Thus the name Tunnel Beach.

We walked down the stairs and into a stunning, absolutely private beach. It was so beautiful we forgot to take more than this first picture. Instead we sat, peacefully and nearly silently, in awe until the leg fell asleep.

If you’d like to see more, another traveler got better images.

So, yes, the Kiwis have very limited sense of distance or time estimation, but, as always, it works out in the end.





xo

*Never, ever, ever rely on the Kiwi sense of estimation when bodily functions are at stake. Never.

Scuba Scuba

While the Mr. has both experience and a scuba diving license, I have never fulfilled my dream of scuba diving. After the Mr’s first, very positive experience with Porpoise Dive in Bay of Islands, we decided to fulfill my dream with a discovery dive.

Our guides were the fabulous couple Trevor and Bev, two dedicated scuba divers with excellent humor, the ability to make anyone feel secure and happy, and over 30 years of experience. Trevor also has an excellent tattoo with accompanying story and Bev a very deep understanding for the requirement of ‘lady space’ in wet suits. Thankfully, and for the first time, I had enough space up top and some space to expand down below.

First we took a little boat about 45 minutes out; I survived (barely) seasickness with stomach contents intact. The Mr. did a dive on a purposefully sunken ship, the HMNZS Canterbury, with Trevor and another experienced diver.

That dive was, in the Mr.’s words, “fück!ng geil!”

Then the two newbies, Michael and Nicole, learned how to breathe underwater under Bev's carefully instruction. The worst, worst, worst part is the first breath underwater. The worst, worst part is the second breath underwater. The logical survival-is-important mind wasn’t open to breathing in pure water. But after the first five breaths – I was off!

During my first dive, I got to try out this whole scuba thing – better than expected – and see some lovely, lovely fish. I successfully stayed under water and cruised along behind Bev. In fact I was told repeatedly that I’m quite the natural, and it’s been documented*!

We actually stayed under water for between 30 and 45 minutes. It was fabulous, fabulous but also a little tiring.

After a lunch break with yummy sweets, all four divers got into the water to scuba around a highly populated underwater rock. Michael and I, the less experienced, stayed towards the top of the rock, while the experience divers took off for the bottom of the rock.

There were tons of fish swimming around and even some rays! At the beginning of the dive, Trevor, the profi, very calmly tapped my arm and pointed towards a swimming ray. A swimming ray, swimming in our direction! I urgently grabbed at his arm in panic while the ray calmly, delicately, much like a Budda swam past us on his way to wherever he was headed. I’m sure it was feet and feet away from us, but for little ole me from southern Ohio, it was a little surprising for me! Especially when they are this big (regardless that these are indeed the “small” ones):

All in all, it was a great experience and will absolutely be repeated!

The scuba honeymooners

More pictures on Snapfish.
*p.s. Shortly before 30, I still haven’t figured out how to properly write the ‘e’ at the end of my name. Sorry Mrs. Nolan, I know you tried hard in 2nd grade to teach me how to ‘bring it to a good end’ but I’m still so lazy.


xo

Model Contest Returns

Okay, people, time to really vote. Who's the cutest - and the answer is so clear.

xo

Hot Water Beach

I have no idea how many other places there are like Hot Water Beach in the world, but I’m guessing it’s a very, very special place. It is a beautiful beach on the side of Coromandel Peninsula with a quirky little twist: boiling hot water flows right below the surface of one section of the sand and is accessible during low tide.

If one wants to really have the Hot Water Beach experience, its quite easy:

• drive to a beautiful beach
• wait for low tide
• rent a shovel ($5 from the corner store)
• walk to the exposed rock line
• dig about a half foot, maybe even a foot down (making sure you’re friends and family are creating walls around this hole you’re creating)
• take a seat on the edge of the hole you’ve created, with your back against the walls
• watch the boiling hot water spring up, allowing it too cool a bit before reaching your seating position.

Ta Dah! A natural and temporary hot tub. Enjoy – just make sure that you don’t put yourself right where the water boils up or you’ll burn some skin off. Seriously.

If one is feeling a little bit lazier, its even easier:

• drive to a beautiful beach
• wait for low tide
• walk to the exposed rock line
• take lots of pictures of self-made men digging into the sand
• walk further down the beach
• play in sand until you’re too bored
• walk back to the rock line
• take pictures of the people in the natural and temporary hot tubs
• burn your feet while taking pictures of boiling sand

Guess which approach we took?

The more ambitious with their shovels.

Playing in the sand, which was brown, white, blue, black, and green

The more ambitious enjoying a well-earned hot tub.

Notice the middle is empty - the water is boiling hot.

Picture the Mr. right in the middle, where he burnt his feet.

Boiling sand.

I burnt my feet right after this picture.

Just shows you shouldn't laugh at your husband too early.

xo

Moments of Beauty

While we were in Mt. Cook we had two very special moments of beauty. First, we saw Mt. Cook, which is apparently runs close to being a miracle.

Then we shared this sunset.

Happy Saturday!!



xo

Verliebt

Now, with a distance of some four weeks, I believe it is time to share with you dear readers that I had a little, very short, emotional affair during our trip to New Zealand. I fell in love, suddenly and completely while on my honeymoon.

I didn’t mean it to happen. We went peacefully and without any idea of what laid before us on the Otago Peninisula. The peninsula is just outside of buzzing Dunedin but feels a hundred miles away. Somehow it feels empty with all of the rolling hills covered with farm land and countless sheep, even with the countless little homes and vacation lodges dotted along the roads.

First we stopped over at the only castle in New Zealand, the Larnach Castle.

The weather was dramatic, lending an amazing view from the castle towers.

And led to some silliness

We then drove further towards the Penguin Place for a penguin tour. The Penguin Place is a privately organized and run nature reserve for the yellow-eyed penguin, the only solitary penguins in the world. They evolved without any natural predators and when the Europeans brought over dogs, cats, shoats, etc. suddenly the little penguins were breakfast for too many of them. And then as the Europeans cleared away the natural bush that the penguins had lived beneath they suddenly found themselves quite homeless as well. Now, generations later, the penguins are protected but it is still difficult for them to live in peace. Thankfully the Penguin Place was founded and dedicated to helping these little guys out.

These days the reserve is financed through tours given through a series of half-underground and heavily protected chamaflouged trenches. The penguins are very sensitive, so while humans are brought close to their homes, they are also carefully hidden and quite very quiet. At first we saw a few penguins resting in their nests.

And then we saw a solitary penguin approaching, slowly waddling towards us on the way to his nest.

And he got a little closer and BAM! I felt myself drifting towards that emotional itching called ‘falling in love’. Who wouldn’t fall in love with this face? Really. And the waddle! A heart must be very hard not to melt.

The tour guide impressed greatly upon our entire group – but somehow looking a little too knowingly into my direction – that penguins cannot be tamed and they certainly aren’t interested in getting to know humans. I was crushed.

Thankfully the Mr. was not only forgiving but also a great sport about it.

xo

Pittsburgh aint got much on this place

While Pittsburgh does have a number of insanely steep streets that rock and roll up the hills – it aint got much on Dunedin’s Baldwin street! Baldwin Street is officially the steepest street in the world and people actually live on it – meaning that this dead-end street is regularly used for transportation beyond the groups of tourists trying to climb it.

Baldwin Street from the bottom

Two of the houses on Baldwin Street

The view from the top

xo